Sunday, 15 September 2019

CCXXXIII. Untamed Beasts Painting Guide

The Heart-eater, final mini of the Untamed Beasts warband. As with the Iron Golems, I documented the painting process. Here's a step-by-step for you:


1 - Zenithal priming: white over black. The recesses remain dark from the black spray, which gives me automatic shading in those hard to reach areas. The white provides a bright underlying surface for the glazes.

2 - Glaze of watered-down Rakarth Flesh (Citadel) over the enitre figure.

3 - Glaze of watered-down Zandri Dust (Citadel) over the enitre figure.

4 - Glaze of watered-down Russ Grey (Citadel) on the skin areas.

5 - Glaze of watered-down Dubai Brown (Scale75) on clothing, fur, weapon grips, helmet. Everything that's not skin or bone/horn.

6 - Glaze of watered-down Flat Black (Scale75) on the fur and helmet (not the helmet horns, though). I deliberately used the extra matt black for this.

7 - Glaze of watered-down Burnt Umber (Pebeo) on the leather belts and straps. I put the same glaze on the cape and loincloth, in uneven blotches.

8 - Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil washes (Citadel), slightly watered-down, on everything but the skin. More brown on lighter areas, more black on darker ones. Repeat where necessary.

9 - Highlight of sligthly thinned Rakarth Flesh on all bone and horn areas.

10 - Highlight of sligthly thinned Celestra Grey on all skin areas. Picking out the muscles, fingers and facial details.

11 - Another highlight on the skin, this time Celestra Grey (Citadel) mixed with a bit of Matt White (Pebeo).

12 - Highlight of Zandri Dust (Citadel) on select areas that were so far glazed with brown.
13 - Highlight of sligthly thinned Rakarth Flesh (Citadel) + Matt White (Pebeo) on bone and horn.

14 - The leather straps are a more reddish brown, so they were edge highlighted with a mix of Burnt Umber and Matt White (Pebeo).
15 - Watered-down Mephiston Red (Citadel) was added on certain areas as spot colour.
16 - The nipples were painted.
17 - The entire figure got a blacklining treatment. Slightly thinned Matt Black (Pebeo), applied with a precise brush where different parts/materials of the miniature meet. This step makes the mini clearer to read from a distance.
18 - The eyes were painted as white dots, for a particularly sinister look.
19 - The helmet and bit of chainmail on the loincloth were highlighted with Celestra Grey (Citadel) + Matt Black (Pebeo), and then Celestra Grey (Citadel).

The red spot colour was applied to the gaps between the weapons' teeth as a subtle wash. 

20 - Black and off-white splatter over the entire model. I do this because it adds so much to the atmosphere of a paintjob. I use an old #10 brush with stiff bristles for the task, flicking paint from it onto the mini. Depending on how thin the paint is, how loaded the brush and how far it is from the mini, the droplets will change in size, opacity and number. It's best you try for yourself to get a feel for it. Always check on a spare piece of paper before you go splatter the mini! If you make a mistake, you can still save it, but you only have seconds to wipe it off.

21 - The tattoos were done in freehand, using a #0 sable brush. The paint I used was a mix of Flat Black (Scale75) and Verdigris Blue (Secret Weapon). They're both rich in pigment, and will leave a neat line even when watered- down and made slightly transparent. The paint needs to be of such consistency to slide of the brush easily, but without running when it touches the mini. The brush needs to have a fine tip, but also enough body to hold a sufficient amount of paint to draw a few uninterrupted lines. I went with spiral patterns and dots, same designs I used on the entire warband. 

The final step was to base and spray-varnish the mini. My warband is now finished and ready to travel to its new home across the Atlantic.

Thursday, 12 September 2019

CCXXXII. Untamed Beasts

I'm nearly finished with the second warband from the Warcry starter set: the Untamed Beasts. I'm not really a fan of these models, they're overly cluttered and their weapons are huge and unwieldy (though I do like the idea of bone weapons, and some of them actually look good; if only they were smaller). As with the Iron Golems, I limited my converting interventions mostly to shaving off excessive details. Lots of spikes and fang trinkets were cut. The mini that needed most work was the Rocktusk Prowler, who got its horns and thigh chaos star removed (along with a few more minor changes).

I wanted a dark, drab colour scheme, with the addition of freehand tattoos to liven up the patches of pale bare skin.

There is one model left to do: the Heart-eater. Saved him for last with the intention of recording the painting steps as I work on him. Coming soon.


Rocktusk Prowler and Beastspeaker


First Fang

Thursday, 5 September 2019

CCXXXI. AoS28: More Free Peoples Soldiers

My collection of soldiers for AoS28 has been slowly growing in the background, and now I've got nearly all companion types available in the Rangers of Shadow Deep rulebook. I guess we should finally try out the rules.




Men-at-Arms are soldiers trained and armed for figthing at close quarters. Their standard equipment includes a sword and shield. Perry plastic HYW English + French, with Victrix Roman shields.




 Archers are soldiers trained and armed for figthing with bows. Perry plastic HYW English.




Crossbowmen are soldiers trained and armed for figthing with crossbows. Perry plastic HYW English + French.





Recruits are the newly joined members of the Free People's armies. They are often young and usually unskilled. Perry plastic HYW English + French and one Victrix Roman head.


Guardsmen are soldiers trained and armed for figthing with larger two-handed weapons such as poleaxes, halberds and spears. Perry plastic HYW English + French.






Templars are knights sworn to a religious order. They are elite warriors highly skilled in melee combat. They wear plate armour and carry two-handed weapons. 
These are out-of-the-box Perry HYW French knights. The symbol of their order is Sigmar's twin-tailed comet.





These specialist huntsmen are not warriors by trade, but they are skilled with a bow and useful to stay on track of the enemies of Order. They wear wild animal pelts and paint their faces to hide themselves in the woods. I used Victrix Ancient Roman heads and Perry medieval bodies and weapons.


Eagelroc troops - these guys will serve as NPCs from the Free City of Eagelroc, which is completely reclaimed from Chaos, repopulated, and on the rise. Eagelroc sends soldiers to help with the cleanup of other lands, but also to pillage the ruins and bring the loot back home. These two soldiers happen to be duardin, but it's not a duardin-only city, there will be humans, too. These plastic dwarf minis were a lucky find, they fit well with my new collection and I can easily convert them with Perry bits (which I did here). They're from eM4. Not really the best material and casting, but I've seen much worse quality for higher prices than this. I'm really happy with these. 



Hunald and Kottar, Lord Gereon's Men

These are two henchmen I made for an earlier scenario. My brother really liked them and wanted me to incorporate them into this collection so he can keep using them. They needed a bit of tweaking and a repaint, but here they are. They count as a Guardsman and a Crossbowman.

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We took the models for a spin a few weeks ago, in a skirmish with a couple friends who wanted to try tabletop wargames for the first time. We used our old favourite: the converted Malifaux 2E rules system; so we had to come up with profiles for all these unit types (and the Stormcast heroes leading them).

Thursday, 29 August 2019

CCXXX. Iron Golems Painting Guide - Metal

Last week I showed how I painted skin on my Iron Golems for Warcry. In this post I'll cover the rest of the model, which is mostly metal armour.


1 -The first step is Russ Grey (GW) + plenty of water, applied as a glaze over the entire armour and all the rest of the metal surfaces.

2 - next was Dark Wood (Secret Weapon), a medium grey colour. Applied over the parts that will be  'silver'.

3 - Brown Rust (Secret Weapon) glaze.

4 - a few more patchy glazes with different browns. You want to avoid too much of it getting on the 'silver parts'. Chainmail was an exception- there I deliberately added a bit of brown in places.

5 - Nuln Oil wash over all metal, for shading and definition.

6 - first highlight is with Celestra Grey (GW). This is only slightly thinned with water, as you don't want it to run and flood into the recesses and around details. I'ts mostly edge highlighting. Did it on both the brown and the silver parts with this.

7 - The second highlight is with white.

8 - Then, to add a bit of interest to the mostly drab, brownish model, I glazed some spots of the armour with thinned Secret Weapon Verdigris Pale Green. It subtly makes the model more 'alive'.

9 - the finishing touches. A bit of blacklining where necessary. And - you've probably noticed that in the past year or so I started applying tiny specks of paint on many of my models (mostly white and/or black). I do it because this splatter adds so much to the atmosphere of a paintjob. I use an old #10 brush with stiff bristles for the task, flicking paint from it onto the mini. Depending on how thin the paint is and how loaded the brush, the droplets will change in size, opacity and number. It's best you try for yourself to get a feel for it. Always check on a spare piece of paper before you go splatter the mini!

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That's all there is to it. The warband is now finished and ready to go to its new owner, and I'm getting started on the other starter warband: the Untamed Beasts.